Nothing warms the heart like a barren wasteland. Although sometimes the beauty of a desolate landscape needs the occasional special touch. If you agree, then lets spice up your desert gaming board with some appropriate terrain. From the visionary who brought you “Throw Momma from the Terrain : 01-02” comes an epic post on Sandstone, dry brushing, and…..that’s actually it. Just those two things. Wait, I do some washing and basing as well. Or do I? I guess you’ll have to read and find out.
1. Buy stuff.
Nick (Mofaux) is currently making another gaming table for me to use during our league nights. The theme is wasteland/desert. I already own some terrain that’s appropriate for a desert like table, but I wanted some new pieces to resemble an Egyptian style ruin, or monument. I found a few cool models that could be made into obstructions. Once the paint job is finished almost anything can translate into sandstone.
2. After I primed them I decided on a base coat color. This part was hard. I was looking through color charts online and trying to find the best Citadel paint that could bring out the yellowy brown look I was striving for. I tested about 4 different base coats and with the help of Aaron we decided Averland Sunset was the best option. At first it appeared too yellow, but I stuck with it and the final product worked great. So don’t stress at first when your rock looks like its been washed in energy drink filled urine. Unless it really is washed in urine, then gross?
Primed and ready.
3. A thirsty brush is a good brush.
This is where you deprive your bush of water and go to town. I dry brushed in two layers. The first layer I used Averland Sunset with about 10% Skull White added in the mix. The colors is basically a slightly lighter version of itself. Still somewhat yellow. It takes some time, but dry brushing is super easy. Make sure your brush really is super dry though, and there’s isn’t much paint residue. You don’t want your dry paint to come off in smears and smudges on the object. Of course that is unless you want it to suck ;). There should be just enough paint to only really apply itself to the most raised parts of the object.
This is the first layer of dry brushing. You can see the difference already between the base coat and the first layer .
Once the first layer is complete, I order pizza. It really depends on how well you want this to turn out, but I really recommend chicken, mushrooms, feta/goat cheese and bacon. Otherwise this whole project may come out wrong. Once that’s complete it’s time for the second layer of dry brushing. Same colors as above, but I use significantly more white in the mix. Not so much as to completely drown out the Averland Sunset, but enough to give it a faded look. Another thing you could do is add a third layer, but only to the top of the object. 90% white 10% Sunset. This would give a more weathered look specifically to the top half of the model where it would have got more eroded.
Two layers of dry brushing for ya.
Normally when washing a model such as one with chain mail, you would paint the chain mail your desired metallic, then take the black/oil wash and liberally apply it to the entire area. After it dries you would then dry brush or touch up the highlighted ares with a lighter metallic. For this piece I didn’t want to just splash a wash over the whole thing, I didn’t want ever single little indent to be darker. This is the reason why I dry brushed before I washed. I specifically applied the wash directly to the deepest cracks. This took a bit more time since I couldn’t just paint broad strokes. The outcome was great and I’m very pleased. Although I’m easy to please.
Bonus step, its so easy I won’t even make it an official step. Add some dry grass or dead bushes to it as is tradition.
There you have it. This post was short and sweet, a terrain novella if you will. Feel free to comment with and questions, suggestions or tips! This is Kool Aid on Mars and until next time remember………..I don’t have a catch phrase.